Thursday March 15th 2012
Went to Nameless Knob with Jay Harrison.
I took a half day off from work and headed home in the rain.
I grabbed Mammut and my gear then met Jay at Stewarts...Still raining.
It looked like a bust, we didn't even bring pro.
Still, we were determined to at least get out there.
During the 30 minute approach, the rain stopped and things began to clear.
We hiked around the bottom and went up to the upper cliff.
The sun came out, the rock dried a bit and Jay lead a new route, improvising, without gear.
I followed, it was short, but great.
The rock is incredibly grippy and magic holds abound.
The view was spectacular and the sun still shining through the one hole in the clouds made just for us.
Mammut met us on top.
We rigged an ancor and Top Roped some more route which were also awesome.
I would put the ratings around 5.4 and 5.6.
Extremely fun stuff...
The weather was holding though we heard some thunder in the distance.
We decided to climb one of the routes on the lower cliff.
Jay knocked of some loose dangerous rock then sent me up.
It was a bit slippery, but I moved up.
I entered a large right rising crack and pulled on some large loose rock, which is no longer there...
Standing on the crack made for some awkward balance moves.
In reflection I should have kept the crack above me and traversed right.
I was 2 inches from the next good hand hold and fell.
Jay caught me, I rested and tried again.
This time I found an awesome right big toe hold and (with Jays help) finished the climb.
I figure the route was about 5.9 with the dirt, loose rock, and moisture, but should be a nice 5.8 when cleaned.
Jay climbed then came down just as the thunderstorms came closer and our hole in the clouds closed.
We packed up and headed out fast, Mammut leading the way...